Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Day 6 - West Yellowstone, MT - 82 Miles

Got up, washed the bike, and hit the road with Bobby J and Zelda about 8:30 a.m. This is purely a sight seeing day and I'm for that.












We headed out US20N toward Ashton then took Hwy47 through Marysville and Warm River. First stop, Mesa Falls on the North (Henry's) Fork of the Snake.



Bobby J and Zelda at Mesa Falls







These are the headwaters of the great Snake River.






Fat guy obscuring view of beautiful waterfall.



The source of all that water is a short distance down the road: Big Springs. Clearest water I think I've ever seen, and with a nice population of trout, both Rainbow and Cutthroat.  And they aren't small either. This guy was at least 24 inches.




Another denizen of the Springs




Left Big Springs and rode into Island Park. I think Bob knows everyone west of the Missouri including fishing guides on Henry's Fork, the Madison, the Firehole, you-name-it. In Island Park we ran into Mary, who went to elementary school with Bob. Her husband, Tom, also a fellow classmate, is a retired teacher who guides in the area. According to Mary he's got a group up on the Madison today and they were on fish there yesterday.

Pulled into West Yellowstone about 3:30 p.m., got rooms and went exploring. Lots of touristy things, but also a couple of pretty good art galleries and a bunch of fly fishing shops.

We're making it an early evening because tomorrow we ride the BEARTOOTH! And, of course, meet up with the Hole in the Head Gang in Red Lodge for some serious beer drinking and pickin' and grinnin'. I'm ready for that!!

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Day 5 - Rexburg, ID - 81 Miles

As noted, plenty of free time today to make it over to Rexburg to meet friends. Talked to Bobby J last night and he's made reservations in West Yellowstone for tomorrow night. Even with the travel-trailer-bumper-to-travel-camper-bumper traffic in Yellowstone, the place is worth it. Superlatives just fail there. I'm sort of partial to Teton as well.



Right now I'm lazing in Jackson thinking about the sights and folks seen on the trip so far and contemplating one of Geiger's Little Laws, observations I've made over the years.


I have a cover for my bike and usually put it on at night; not to protect the bike, but to make it difficult for anyone to get into my bags, trunk, or tank bag. Additionally, it keeps the seat free of morning dew even if it doesn't rain. One of Geiger's Little Laws: Any procrastinated or put off action proves required. When parking last night there were about six or eight Harleys parked in the lot, none covered. Tired, dirty, and hot I debated about twenty nano-seconds and determined if the Harleys didn't need no stinkin' cover, I didn't need no stinkin' cover. Yep, you're right. Woke up to rain this morning. Fortunately, not much and not heavy, so, seated on a towel, the ride to breakfast wasn't too bad.

Among the folks I've seen on this trip the "old codgers" in the coffee shops stick to mind. I like to stop for a cup of coffee, regardless of the heat, at various times as I ride. And, in all these stops there's always at least a couple of old characters sitting over a cup of coffee discussing the heat, price of cattle, or, in one case, Jimmy Ray's broken ribs..."he's just too damned old to be out there pushing steers around like a youngster"..... All are dressed the same: heavily scuffed cowboy boots, faded jeans, and the ubiquitous checked cowboy shirt, usually in shades of blue or red, like bandannas, not states. All share the same weathered face with browned craggy, leather-like skin you could strike a kitchen match on...but I wouldn't advise it.

Under random acts of kindness file the old fellow working at the Wal*Mart in Sweetwater, TX. I have a mechanical throttle lock used to give the right hand/arm a break while traveling. I looked into a fully automatic, electric one like on cars, but at ~$800 installed decided my right arm wasn't worth that much. Anyway, it works fine except whenever it gets really hot in the late afternoon. The tolerances are evidently pretty tight and late in the day when the heat expands the metal the clamp doesn't fully engage. It takes the smallest Allen wrench made to adjust the thing and, naturally, I couldn't find one in my tool bag when I finally decided ENOUGH ALREADY and went to adjust it. So...I stop at the Wal*Mart in Sweetwater and look for an Allen wrench. It was a "Super-Store," meaning everything except for the highest margin product are super difficult to find, and after looking far longer than I wanted, I asked directions from this old fellow keeping the gun desk from floating away. He told me where I'd most likely find them but pointed out I'd have to buy a set. I told him I knew that, but really needed the damned thing. He then pulled what was obviously his own toolbox from below the counter, picked out a "set" of Allen wrenches, and asked would one of these do. Selecting the smallest I said, "Yep, this is it," and he gave it to me. Said he'd never used it in all the time he'd had them and I, obviously, needed one. He wouldn't let me pay him for it either. That's what I mean about good folks all over this country.

AND, for the Wal*Mart executive who might happen upon this blog and want to fire this guy for costing you a sale, I can promise you he made you more money. Keep hiring folks like this and I'll keep buying from you. Unlike many, I'm one of those people who believe Wal*Mart provides a lot of jobs to people who need them, and for the pay provided. They're there, aren't they? Like the child laborers in Bangladesh, if they had a better alternative they'd exercise it. Just a small economics lesson early in the morning from Jackson Hole, WY.

Anyway, got to go check out the rafters on the Snake River. I'll pick this up later in Rexburg.









Betsy-the-Kaw on the Snake River just south of Jackson, WY.







Found the rafters.


















I really like my new camera. When I went to Alaska I had a little Sony that would only go to 4x magnification. The camera worked great but I missed a lot of good pictures. I now use that camera for on-road shots (it's very small and hangs around my neck), but the big boy will go to 40x.










If the Man Laws were enforced the pretty ladies on this raft would look different.







Pulled out of Jackson about 12:00 noon on WY22 toward Victory.




















Man, is this an up and down. There are at least three or four 10 degree slope sections and the scenery is wonderful.






















Arrived in Rexburg around 2:00pm, tasked with getting us rooms for the evening. Once again, a friendly American story happened. Stopping at the first motel I saw, a Comfort Inn, I went merrily up to the desk and asked the lady on duty if she had any rooms available. She said no and that it might be difficult to find one as this is a peak season in the area and some special events were going on as well. Then the random act of kindness: she called four motels before she found one, Cottontree Inn, with two rooms available. I latched on to both immediately, with rather low expectations. Imagine my surprise upon checking in to find a very nice facility with well decorated and apportioned rooms. A hit!! And, once again, Blanche DuBois proves correct: "I've always relied on the kindness of strangers."

Bobby J and Zelda came tooling in around 6:00 and we are set to ride tomorrow: Henry's Lake, Henry's Fork of the Snake, Yellowstone. I'm ready.

Oh yeah, for the Idaho affectionados here's your bread and potatoes:

Monday, July 16, 2007

Day 4 - Jackson, WY - 472 Miles

Another beautiful Colorado morning. The view from my motel across I-70 this morning.

(Click to enlarge)

Pulled out on I-70 to Rifle (what a great name for a Colorado town), taking Hwy13 north. Plans last night were to go to Flaming Gorge but as I was riding north on 13 I kept saying, "Yeah, but you've been there before." And I have, I used to fish B.A.S.S. Federation tournaments on that water so I know the place well. Plus, my route would take me to Rangely, again, familiar road; Bobby J and I rode Hwy139 to Grand Junction a couple of years ago. So...I changed the route.
I decided to stay on Hwy13 through Meeker, Hamilton, Craig, and into Baggs, WY.


Between Craig and Baggs I passed this old mine shaft. This picture doesn't quite get the point across because you can't see the rest of the mountain, but the shaft leading straight into the base of the mountain really caught my attention. I imagined it with workers going in and out, each with aspiration much like ours, a better life for themselves and their children. There's something sad about dead buildings and factories, and aspirations.



Five minutes later I round a corner and see a pasture with several horses, one with a new colt and I'm reminded that life keeps renewing itself so I can get off that crap and crank down on the throttle and move on into Wyoming. So I did.





Took I-80 down to Rock Springs and then Hwy191N to US189 at Hoback Junction. Twelve miles further north and I'm in Jackson (Hole) where a postage stamp room on the third floor (no elevator) goes for $178 night. But, it has a bed, an internet connection, and, thank God, a great shower. And, I guess, some sort of expensive ambiance. At least I think that's what you call it when your shampoo smells like apple cores.

I only have about 90 miles to go to get to Rexburg to Meet Bob and Zelda tomorrow so I'm going to laze around Jackson for awhile. I'll probably go out to the Snake (river) and watch the river-runners. One never knows what's going to happen down there. Last year Bobby J and I and a couple of his Harley boys stood on the side of the river encouraging the young ladies in the rafts. As I recall, we enacted several new Man Laws while there. I'll have to review those and let you know the status.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Day 3 - Glenwood Springs, CO - 307 Miles

Woke up to a beautiful Colorado morning.

Just outside Walsenburg on Hwy 160. (Click to enlarge photo)

Hit US160 west through Alamosa, catching US285 in Monte Vista. This turned into US24 and I rode into Leadville around noon.



Visited the local Heritage museum, curious about the town and Mary Hallock Foote. The museum had very little on that subject but did have some nice antiques from the period, and a lot of history on the town and its rich silver kings. Interesting visit. They had a hand carved grandfather clock that dated back to about 1860 and I would love to take that thing into the next Antiques Roadshow with my name on it. (They made me remove the little tag with my name on it. I didn't think I was seen sticking it on the back of the clock.)

Mary Hallock Foote is one of my favorite characters of the "Old West."  Educated, talented, cultured, alert and observant, brave, she was well educated and studied art in New York City before becoming a well-known artist-illustrator there.  She married Arthur De Wint Foote, a mining engineer, in 1876, and moved with him to San Jose, California, later going with him to mining and water projects in Leadville (CO), Deadwood (SD), Boise (ID), and Morelia, Michoacán, Mexico, before settling finally in Grass Valley, CA.
To me, Mary Foote is the archetypal female representative of the schizophrenia that was the settlement of the west.  She fully represented the cultured and literate Yang juxtaposition to the coarse and violent Yin of the miners, gamblers, and gunfighters which peopled this wild and woolly place and time.  Her sojourn in Leadville covered the years 1879-81, missing the self-encapsulated Yin and Yang that was Doc Holliday by three years.  Holliday was there during the summer of 1884, shooting ex-Leadville policeman, Billy Allen, in Manny Hyman's saloon, on the 19th of August of that year.  Holliday was himself, the archetypal male representative of the schizophrenic period.  He was not just a dentist, he was educated far above most of the period, and a concert-level pianist who delighted many in the Dodge City days with his great talent.  Further, according to the research of author Mary Doria Russel, the key friendship with the Earp clan was through Morgan, not Wyatt.  I totally recommend her two books on this complex and hounded man.  Written as novels her research is by far the most in-depth study of Holliday ever undertaken.
(Note: See Spitting lead in Leadville for the story of Holliday in Leadville.)

On the advice of the lady who ran the museum, I went to the Past Time bar. The more famous one in Leadville is the Silver Dollar Saloon. It's supposedly made to look just as it did "back when." The Past Time, according to my source, offered the best buffalo burger in town and, based on my observations, looked much like it must have looked "back when." Certainly, no one has spent a lot of money trying to modernize the place in the interim. It had a great old time bar where, according to the owner, Doc Holiday, Buffalo Bill Cody, and "Texas Jack" Omohundro once sipped the suds. Isn't hard to figure out why they gave Omohundro a nickname is it?

After leaving Leadville I lead-footed it (couldn't resist) it back to Hwy82, and the "Top of the Rockies." This a truly wonderful ride over the Independence Pass (12,040 feet) to Aspen.

Hwy 82 between Leadville and Independence Summit.

















When they say 10 mph curve, they mean "TEN MPH CURVE, DUMMY!"

















But the view from the top was worth it!


















That white stuff is still cold on July 15th.

















Took Hwy82 down the canyon (great little ride) to Glenwood Springs, CO. Rumor has it Doc Holiday is buried here. I'm going to check it out. Wonder if he still looks like Val Kilmer?

Speaking of which; I'm a Kevin Costner and Dennis Quaid fan, but boy, you gotta say it: Kurt Russel and Val Kilmer kicked serious butt playing Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday. I'm not messing with any guy who says, "I'll be your daisy."

Heading north tomorrow toward Flaming George...oops, had the previous sentence on my mind...meant the reservoir, Flaming Gorge. Don't know where after that, but I'm meeting up with my buddy Bobby J and lovely Miss Z in Rexburg, Idaho Tuesday afternoon. After that we'll be meandering our way over toward Red Lodge, MT to meet up with the Hole in the Head Gang.

Day 2 - Walsenburg, CO - 555 Miles

Left Abilene about 7:30am on I-20. Took US84 from Sweetwater to Post, Hwy207 to Foydata, US70 to Plainview (and it is), US194 to Dimmitt (damn it), then US385 to Hartley, US87 from there to Raton, NM. That put me on I-25N. Pulled into Walsenburg about 6:30pm (Mtn time) and got a hotel room. Ran into a couple of nice guys from Bay City, TX. They were coming up to Colorado to ride 4-wheelers.

Very little to say about any of these rides except the pretty part of Hwy36 west of I-35. The scenery through west Texas is, as Ernest Tubb has told us, miles and miles of miles and miles, punctuated every so often with a cattle feed lot. Ah, how I hate the smell of methane in the morning.

The good news is after entering New Mexico the up started and one can see the beginnings of big hills that turn into the beginnings of mountains almost as soon as one enters Colorado. The plains are grassier, greener, and better to look at, giving some aesthetic counterbalance to the cattle feed lots in New Mexico. There is one just west of Clayton that was truly amazing in the olfactory sense. If the military really wanted those folks in Gitmo to talk they'd have imprisoned them just downwind from that feed lot. I don't know what camel dung smells like, but I can't believe anyone could last more than 48 hours downwind of the Clayton feedlot. The townspeople are strategically placed up wind but, doubtlessly, dread the wind shift that must come. In Hawaii it's the Kono wind; in Clayton it's the OhNo wind (the "Aw S*&t" wind would just be too bad a pun, huh?).

Anyway, I'm in Colorado and it's feeling like my "real" trip is just beginning. Tomorrow, Doc Holliday, Molly Brown, and the very impressive Mary Hallock Foote in Leadville. After that, your guess is as good as mine, but my buddy, Bobby J, has given me a couple of hints. He's never led me wrong.

Day 1 - Abilene, TX - 349 Miles

Pulled out a day earlier than originally planned. The weather report for the Houston area for Saturday morning was rain in biblical proportions and the map reflected a huge bow-shaped front in my line of travel for the weekend. I figured if I left Friday morning I might be able to get closer to the front by early evening, let the rain fall while I slept, then creep behind it Saturday morning.

It worked! Good planning yields good results (at least that's what the planning gurus say). Managed to get packed, everything done and was on the road at 11:00am. Took 290 to Brenham and then 36 to Abilene. This is one of my favorite Texas rides. The rolling farm and ranch land west of I-35 is always a treat. I love the town of Hamilton; town square with an old pharmacy with a soda fountain. Got to Abilene about 6:00 pm, found a room and missed all the rain.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Getting Ready To Go Again

Getting ready to ride again! I'll be pulling out from Spring, Tx Saturday, July 14th.

This trek is the result of the visit to the Hole in the Head Gang in Lovell, WY on the Alaska trip last year. For the unfamiliar, or not-bored-to-death yet set, the blog for that trip is at http://bigmotoride.blogspot.com. (See the July 4th entry for data on the Hole in the Head Gang.)

We're going to get together again and ride the Beartooth to Red Lodge spending a few days in the area checking out the merits of beer, barbeque, bikes, and guitar pickin'.

For the uninitiated, the Beartooth is the highest elevation highway in the Northern Rockies, Hwy296 (west) off Hwy120 and joining to Hwy212 going into Red Lodge, Mt. It's about 69 miles of left and right, and up and up, and beautiful scenery. Further information can be found at: http://www.byways.org/explore/byways/2281/stories/47549. Note - the route was discovered by General Sheridan in 1882. Of course, he wasn't sight-seeing; he was looking for Kevin Costner and Mary McDonnell.

I'm currently in the panic stages of planning. Got to get some more bling (can't have enough, you know?), get the bike ready, the head ready (okay...it's ready now!), and determine which way I'm not going to go. The latter refers to the fact that I pick general directions and roads then remain fluid on actual routes. I can't promise when I get up in the morning if I'm going to do what I thought I was going to do last night....can you? Why would you want to? Right now my "head" is thinking Leadville, CO then west and north. We'll see!

So...here we go again.